Linen is a completely natural fabric made from flax plants. The fibers are bundled together to create linen threads which are then woven into linen fabric. Linen is incredibly versatile and durable.
You may not know that the word ‘linen’ actually encompasses a whole host of different types of fabrics that are useful for many different projects, from your home textiles to clothing, to everything else.
So what are the different types of linens? In this article, we will tell you all about the different types of linen, including Damask, Holland, and Cambric, and how you can use the right type of linen in your next project.
The History Of Linen
One of the oldest fabrics in the world is linen. It is believed that this type of fabric was invented around 7,000 BC, and because it’s such a versatile and durable fabric, it’s still a very popular fabric to this day.
While linen was used around the world throughout history, in the 16th century, Germany and Prussia started to produce the finest quality linen and became quite famous for it. This led to the creation of fine linen fabrics being made in these regions.
Northern France and Belgium’s coastal regions are known to produce high-quality linen because these areas benefit from the cool climate, which is ideal for growing flax – the plant that is used to make linens.
In addition to these regions, flax crops are also grown in other countries such as China, Italy, Ireland, and even the US. Because of this, you’ll hear countries of origins used to describe the type of linen, like French Linen or Holland Linen.
However, this is just one way to categorize linen. Below, we will mention different types of linen based on their origins, their weave patterns, their fiber contents, and their uses.
Qualities Of Linen
While different types of linen have different appearances and levels of durability, natural linens have very similar qualities. There are certain qualities of linen that make it the perfect fabric to use, especially in the summer.
First of all, linen is an all-natural fabric that comes from flax plants. This makes it better for the environment and more sustainable as a natural resource. Because of this, linen also dyes well using natural dyes, making it quite versatile.
The fibers of linen are resistant to bacteria and fungus, making it less likely to collect dirt or other germs. These qualities are especially handy when making sheets, towels, or other items that come into contact with bare skin.
In addition, linen is much stronger than cotton and will not break down or tear as easily. This quality also makes it last longer over time.
Unlike other types of natural fabrics, linen is very easy to launder, and it even gets softer with each wash. You can simply toss it in the washer and dryer without worrying about damaging the fabric.
There’s also a really why linen is such a popular fabric choice for summer clothing items. This type of fabric is extremely lightweight and breathable, making you feel airy and preventing BO issues during warmer days.
If you’re curious about how you can enjoy the benefits of linens, let’s take a look at the different types of linens below and see how you can use them in your next project.
Types Of Linen Based On Origins
As we’ve mentioned, because of the history of the production of linen, linen is often categorized by its origin. Let’s take a look at some of them.
Damask Linen
Damask linen is an elegant fabric that has a more traditional look. It typically has patterns that are formed during the weaving process, using a jacquard loom and a mix of satin and plain weaves to create its beautiful patterns. Because of this, the patterns are on both sides, which means the fabric is reversible.
This type of linen’s origin is from Damascus, the capital of Syria, which once served as a major trading point between the East and the West.
Compared to other types of linen, Damask linen is a very strong and heavy fabric, mainly due to its tightly woven construction and several layers of threads.
Because of this, Damask linen is also more durable than most other types of linens, which makes it suitable for items with heavy use, such as upholstery and curtains.
Because damask linen is very thick and durable, it can be used for:
- Table linens: Damask tablecloths are a popular option for weddings and other formal events because of their elegant look.
- Clothing: Damask is often used for making clothing that’s worn on special occasions, such as prom dresses, bridesmaid dresses, or ball gowns.
- Home decor: It can also be used to make curtains, pillows, or chair covers. It has a classic appearance that works well in both traditional and modern settings.
As a thick, tightly woven fabric, it does take a bit of effort to sew with this type of fabric. Since this type of fabric does look quite refined and elegant, it does go with more complicated designs that require an experienced sewer.
It’s recommended that you hand wash or dry clean damask linen to preserve the jacquard patterns and prevent the fabric from pilling.
Holland Linen
Holland Linen is plain weave linen that has been treated with a mixture of starch and oil to become opaque. The result is a linen ideal to use for window shades and lampshades. In addition, you can also use it for sign cloth or labels and tags.
The feel and look of the Holland Linen will give you a relaxed feel in your space. It has a natural grayish color that will flatter any room in your home.
Because this fabric has been treated with starch, it can become quite stiff and more suitable for home goods rather than textiles that will touch your skin. You also won’t be able to wash Holland linen because washing will remove the starch that has been used to treat the linen.
Cambric Linen
Cambric is a delicate type of linen that is woven from twisted and short fibers, creating a very fine weave. Its name points to the Cambria region of France. This type of linen is used for making various delicate items, such as underwear and handkerchiefs.
The tight weave is a characteristic that gives Cambric linen a smooth and polished appearance. This process is done through a technique known as calendering, where the fabric is processed by a heated roller.
The process of making these fabrics involves making the fibers tighter and giving them a stiff and glossy appearance. This ensures that the product will retain its shape and comfort for years.
You can find Cambric linen in different qualities, which can be used for different purposes. High-quality Cambric is very soft and makes perfect materials for high-quality clothing items, while low-quality Cambric is still quite useful as lining fabrics or napkins and handkerchiefs.
Since Cambric linen is very tightly woven, it can also be used for embroidery and lacework, which is often referred to as ‘batiste.’ When used in this way, the design is often very small and delicate.
Similar to other types of linen, Cambric is also very easy to launder using the washing machine and the dryer. It will hold its shape after laundering and will become softer after each wash.
Types Of Linen Weave Patterns
Linen can also be categorized by its weave pattern and thread count.
The weave pattern refers to how the warp and weft are woven together to create the fabric. Plain or even weave fabrics often have an even warp to weft thread ratio (1:1 or 2:2), but you can also use different weave designs like twill or herringbone to create a different look for the fabric.
The thread count will also affect how the fabric will look. The thread count refers to how many individual strands of fiber can be seen in a square inch of fabric.
A high thread count means the weave is more ‘packed,’ meaning the fabric is tightly woven. As a result, fabrics with high thread counts are often of higher quality.
On the other hand, a low thread count indicates a loosely-woven fabric that can feel rougher to the touch. For sewing, loosely-woven fabrics are more prone to raveling, which can make it annoying to sew unless you have a serger to seal off the cut edges of the fabric.
Let’s take a look at some types of linen weave patterns below.
1. Plain-Woven Linen
Plain-woven linen refers to a 1:1 weave. It is a simple and versatile material that can be used to make various household items, like dish towels. Because it is very durable, it’s perfect for items that need to be washed and used frequently.
In addition, loosely woven linen – plain weave linen that has a lower thread count – is very absorbent and can be used as reusable diapers.
2. Sheeting Linen
Sheeting linen is a very tightly woven linen with a very high thread count, resulting in a very smooth appearance and a thicker feel. It is commonly used for bedding items and even clothing items.
Types Of Linen For Different Purposes
More often than not, people select linen based on the project they are making, so linen can also be categorized using the purpose of the project.
1. Suiting Linen
The suiting linen is a strong and crisp fabric that can be used to make various types of clothes. What sets suiting linen apart is the weave pattern: it can be made up of various weaves such as twill, herringbone, or plain weave.
For fine, high-quality suits, linen with very high thread counts are often used. This type of suit will often need to be hand-washed or dry cleaned to prevent the fabric from losing its shape.
However, you’ll often see linen with lower thread counts used for unlined summer suits, which are suitable for summer events like beach weddings. This type of suiting linen is very easy-going and can be laundered easily as you would normally launder linen.
2. Huckaback Linen
The term huckaback refers to a loose and uneven weave of linen that is used to make a textured linen cloth, often used for towels. This type of weave provides a unique texture and is known to absorb moisture effectively.
Huckaback linen is a very hard-wearing fabric and can be laundered time and time again without any significant change in color or texture. It is also a very absorbent fabric, so it dries you off quickly after a bath or shower.
Huckaback linen also absorbs moisture instantly and dries off very quickly; just a quick pat, and you are ready for your day. Because this is an all-natural fabric, it is an ideal material for those with sensitive skin.
It’s also very lightweight and won’t take up as much space in your linen closet or on your bathroom shelves as other conventional towels. Plus, they’ll fit easily into any suitcase when you pack them for a trip.
3. Bedding Linen
Bedding linens usually have a plain weave with a medium to high thread count, using highly refined warp and weft threads. The higher the thread count, the smoother and more luxurious the bedding will feel.
One benefit to using linen for your bedding is that this material is kind to your skin and can feel highly breathable and airy, which makes them perfect for the summer months.
4. Handkerchief Linen
Handkerchief linen is also plain weave linen with a medium thread count, using even threads.
Since it is lightweight and has an excellent drape, it can be used for more than just handkerchiefs, including for blouses and trousers.
5. Butcher’s Linen
In contrast, butcher’s linen is plain weave linen with a low to medium thread count and sometimes uses uneven threads, resulting in a bulky and coarse appearance.
Because it’s highly durable, butcher’s linen is often used to make protective clothing or aprons.
6. Towelling Linen
Toweling linen uses a specially looped weave technique to create the texture that you often see in bathroom towels.
Because of this weave construction and linen’s natural characteristics, this type of linen is highly absorbent while feeling soft against the skin. They can be washed again and again while still retaining their softness over time.
Types Of Linen Blends
In addition to 100% linen, linen can also be blended to minimize some of its undesirable characteristics. For example, linen is very prone to wrinkles, so blending it with other materials like rayon or polyester can help minimize some of these issues.
Let’s take a look at some popular linen blends below.
1. Linen/Rayon
Rayon is a semi-synthetic material made from wood pulp. It’s known to be the cheaper alternative to silk since it is very lightweight, breathable, drapes well, and has a natural sheen.
Blending linen with rayon can add these characteristics to linen. If you want to make flowy dresses, for example, using a linen/rayon blend can add drape and luxury to the final result.
2. Linen/Cotton
Cotton needs no introduction – it is the most popular fiber in the world. There are several advantages to blending linen and cotton, with the most important being that it can minimize the fabric’s wrinkles.
Linen/cotton blends are also easier to iron or steam iron without too much effort, so it’s definitely a win/win for those who love linen but don’t love that it can wrinkle easily.
3. Linen/Polyester
Being a natural material, linen can sometimes bleed in the wash, and the colors can fade over time. That’s why blending linen with polyester can help it hold colorful prints better, but you can still enjoy the wonderful qualities of linen.
Up Next: Dyeing Linen – Ultimate Guide