New sewers are often intimidated by making their own alterations, especially adding pockets to a lined skirt. But, a little known secret is that pockets are actually quite simple to add to any dress, pair of pants or skirt, with or without lining. It’s true, the lining does make it a bit trickier, but not much.
So how do you add pockets to a lined skirt? It’s similar to adding pockets to any other skirt. You just need to be a little more careful during the execution. The good news is that the pocket and all of your stitches will be hidden, so it doesn’t matter they aren’t perfect.
The invisible pocket sounds complicated because it seems to slip right into the skirt, never to be seen again. This goes against the ingrained thoughts you have about sewing – everything you sew should be seen and shown off!
Well, you will get all of the satisfaction you need from knowing that you now have an ultra-cool pocket to warm your hands, store your keys or carry your cell phone.
How To Add Pockets To A Lined Skirt
Follow this essential guide to help you quickly and easily add a pocket to any dress, pants, or skirt. Start by laying out the skirt you want to work on and the fabric you plan to use for your new pockets. This will help you visualize the finished product.
1. Select the Pattern of Your Pocket and the Size
Many skirt patterns are designed with pockets – whether or not you used the pocket pattern when you made the garment doesn’t matter. You may still have the pocket patterns available.
One of your existing patterns may already have a pocket pattern you can use. If not, or you don’t have one you like, you can use the pocket design from another garment in your closet or create your own unique style.
Whatever style you like is fine, just make sure it is big enough to hold your hand or any other objects you plan to put in there.
Trace the size and shape of the pocket, or draw one freehand if you are creating your own design, onto a piece of paper, pattern paper or paper board. You will use this cut-out to trace your pattern onto the fabric.
2. Choose Where You Want to Put Your Pocket
The ideal location of the pocket opening is just over your hips. Put on your skirt and place your hands as if placing them into side pockets. Pretend the pocket is there so that you have a better idea of where it should be.
Mark this spot with a fabric pen or some pins. The top and bottom of the new pocket are all you want to mark at this time. Consider how you would like the pocket bag to hang.
Most people like the top to extend up to the waistline. This will allow you to add extra stitches so the weight of what you carry doesn’t pull on the seams too much.
3. Mark Your Pocket Placement
Now that you know where you want to put your pockets, mark them clearly on both sides of the seams. You can use a fabric pen or tailor’s tacks.
Lay the skirt on a flat surface, like your sewing table or any other table where you usually do your work. Fold the skirt in half to ensure the pockets will be symmetrical. You want the pockets on either side of your skirt to begin and end at the point.
How long do you want the opening to be?
Five inches is a good length, but you can use any length you like. Just make sure that the opening is large enough to fit your hand comfortably, otherwise, you will put excess strain on the stitches.
A pocket that is too small will make it difficult to put your hands and other things in or take them out. A pocket or pocket opening that is too big will be a bit awkward and you may tend to lose items you put inside. However, this can be a very interesting look.
At this stage, you should also decide how big you want the inside of the pocket to be.
Do you want a small pocket just for your hands? Or would you like a deep pocket that hangs way down so you won’t have to worry about things you put in there, falling out.
4. Cutting Out the Pockets
Choose the fabric you want to use to make your pockets. Fabric similar in color and texture to the rest of the skirt is one choice, but a contrasting color is often quite attractive.
A contrasting material is not usually very comfortable. For example, you don’t really want wool pockets on a polyester skirt.
Yes, it is a hidden pocket, but even hidden pockets may peek out once in a while.
Now, take your pattern pieces and lay them out onto the fabric. You can pin the paper to the fabric or trace the design around the edges. Accuracy is not all that important at this stage.
The pocket will be hidden. If you find you have too much excess fabric, you can always trim it off later.
In the end, the pocket will be entirely hidden by the skirt, so as long as it is comfortable and useful, the appearance is not a vital point. That said, you should still try to do your best. Just remember that it isn’t the end of the world if it isn’t perfect.
Mark the stitching lines around three sides of the pocket. You can mark the lines on the section to be sewn to the seam of the skirt, as well.
5. Opening the Seam of Your Skirt
Adding an invisible pocket in the seam of your skirt or dress requires one important element – the garment needs to have a seam.
Although you can add a pocket to any garment, a seam does make things a lot easier. This allows you to attach the pieces of the pocket with little fuss or bother and you don’t have to cut the fabric of the skirt.
Mark the opening of the pocket and remove the stitching from the side seam between the marks indicating the top and bottom of the pocket. Don’t worry about making the opening too big. It will be stitched tight and secure later.
Ideally, you will have a seam allowance of at least 3/8″ where the pocket will be attached. A smaller seam will work if you are willing or able to lose some of the circumferences of the skirt. Keep in mind, you could lose up to a full inch.
Open the seam on the skirt and the lining. Treat them like one.
Keep both sections together at all times, just as if you were working with just one piece of fabric. This can be tricky because of the lining and the main section of the skirt won’t want to stay together.
Depending on the type of fabric used, the two pieces will try to slip and slide all over the place. You can use a technique called the “understitch” to keep the two pieces together, but this is a hassle and a lot of extra work you don’t need.
However, it is an option, especially for beginners that might not be too confident in their abilities.
6. Attach the Pockets to the Inside Seam
At this point, your skirt should be inside-out with the opening of the pocket clearly visible. Line up one piece of your pocket with one side of the seam on the skirt. You can loosely sew these pieces together with large stitches that will be removed later, or pin them together.
Make sure the lining and the skirt are lined up perfectly.
Also, make sure you have the right section of the pocket. If you made rounded pockets, the piece you are attaching would be the straight side.
Sew both pieces of pockets onto the skirt and lining. If you are putting a pocket on both sides, do the same on the other side. Sew up from where you opened the seam. Carefully sew around the outside of the pocket, right up to the top of the section you opened.
This encloses the pocket. You may want to repeat this step to ensure you have a tight, secure hold all-around your pocket.
This step can get tricky.
Don’t let the lining slip out over the fabric of the skirt. You want to sew the skirt, lining, and picket together, without any slipping. You want all three sections to fit together perfectly and stay in place.
7. Press the Seams of the Pocket
For a nice smooth look, press the seams of the pocket edges flat. You want to press the seams open at the stitch.
For a cool finishing touch, turn the skirt right side out and press the finished product. You are now ready to try out your new pockets!
