Buttons come loose or fall off of jackets all the time. Whether it’s from overuse, if it’s a shirt you enjoy wearing often, or weak threads used by the manufacturer, your shirt button could be gone before you know it.
You can take your jacket to a tailor for repairs, which can cost quite a bit, or just sew it on yourself, which is quick and easy. I’m here to help you save money and walk you through the process.
A professional can sew on a button in about two minutes. If you’re just starting out in sewing, it could take you longer, but the end result will be the same: a button that is not going to fall off again any time soon.
Plus, if you do it yourself, you’ll have a new skill that you can use again and again.
So how do you sew a button on a jacket with lining? The best way is to gather the proper thread, scissors, needle, and a button and start sewing from the back of the lining. This is important because you will be able to hide the thread from the inside of the jacket once you’re finished.
Do you want to learn more? Just follow these instructions to learn how to sew a button on a jacket with lining. It’s simple, and we’ve broken it down into a step-by-step guide, making it easy for you to read as you sew.
How To Sew A Button On A Jacket With Lining
Below is the step-by-step guide to sewing a button on a jacket with lining. Make sure not to skip any steps, as they are all important to your success.
Here’s what you need:
- Buttonhole thread – Professionals usually use Silamide type A thread. A good rule of thumb is to stock about 5 cards with the basic colors (white, black, brown, tan, and gray). This will cover you for just about any sewing situation that comes up.
- You can find this type of thread on Amazon.
- You can find this type of thread on Amazon.
- Scissors – These are important to cut the thread. Ripping the thread leaves strays that are difficult to put through the eye.
- Needle – John James needles are highly recommended. They are considered the best on the market.
- You can find an assorted pack of John James needles on Amazon.
- You can find an assorted pack of John James needles on Amazon.
- Button – the button you want to sew on and the jacket you want to sew the button onto.
Step 1: Cut the Thread
For a proper button repair, you will need about one yard (or one meter) of thread to start with.
Unravel this length, which is equal to about the distance from the tips of your fingers to your nose, and cut it clean with your scissors. You don’t want a jagged edge.
Step 2: Fold the Thread in Half
Find the center and fold the thread equally. Your thread will now be about eighteen inches long.
Step 3: Thread the Needle
Put the folded part of the thread through the eye. Hold the thread at the loop. Squeeze it with your fingers and push it through the eye of the needle.
The bigger the eye, the easier this will be. Using a needle designed for leather is a good choice because the eye is quite large.
If you have a needle threader, you can use that. You simply push the metal loop through the eye, put the thread through the metal loop, and pull back through the eye.
When you are finished, you should have 4 equal lengths of thread hanging from the eye of the needle.
Step 4: Tying the Knot
Take all 4 of the thread ends and tie them securely together into a knot on the end.
The majority of people will only use a single thread. This is very time consuming as it takes about 14 passes of the needle to do a proper button repair.
You want the button fastened securely. By doubling the thread, you get a secure hold with only about 5 passes. This saves a lot of time and energy, but with the same result. You are still putting on just as much thread as you would with more passes of a single layer of thread.
For a good knot, start with a loop.
Wrap the thread about 4 times around the needle. Take the knot between your fingers, pinch and slide it gently down the needle, all the while pulling it tight.
Wax covered thread won’t bunch on you so you can pull it tight until the circle is closed without any worries. If you have any thread leftover above the knot, just cut it off. But, make sure you cut after the knot and don’t cut the knot off.
If you do accidentally cut off the knot, make another one. Some people sew without a knot on the end of the thread, but this can be tricky. It’s easier to just tie a knot.
Step 5: Put the Needle Through the Fabric From the Back
Make a mark where the button is supposed to go. If you are replacing a button that fell off, there should already be a mark or some holes where the threads were.
Pierce the needle from the underside or inside of the jacket and pull it through the fabric until the knot is tight up against the back.
Make sure there aren’t any puckers on the front. Both sides of the fabric should be nice and smooth.
Step 6: Pull the Thread Through the Hole the First Time
You are now ready to start sewing on your button. Many people prefer to switch up button methods in order to sew different types of buttons according to the number of holes.
A button needs about 4 passes of thread to ensure a stronghold that will last for several years of wear.
If you are using a button with just one hole, then pass the thread through that one hole about 4 times. If your button has several holes, you will have to pass through all of them.
You can use a square pattern or an X, whichever you prefer. Most people find the X pattern looks better.
Step 7: Passing Through the Fabric the First Time
Once you have passed the needle and thread through the fabric and buttonhole the first time, you have to go back and pass it through again.
Push the needle through the fabric and then feed the thread through carefully.
Make sure it doesn’t knot up. When you have done this, the button should lay flat on the fabric. That is the first loop.
Step 8: Pull the Thread Through Again
Now you have to repeat that step again.
Poke the needle through the fabric and buttonhole from the underside and pull through for the second time. With a post button, simply pass through the one hole.
If you have several holes and are making a pattern, you will have to pass through a different to start your pattern. An X pattern is the easiest and looks the best, but you can use any pattern you like.
It’s best not to start one pattern and then change to a different pattern partway through. For example, if you start making an X and then later switch to a square, your button will look like a big mess.
Step 9: Pass through the Fabric a Second Time
Repeat the same process you used with the first pass through the fabric. Pull the needle and thread towards the back.
Now your button should have 8 threads passing through the holes to hold it in place. You are half way through the task of sewing on a button.
Step 10: Pass the Thread Through the Button a Third Time
Now is the time to pass through the third time.
Pierce your needle through from the backside of the fabric up through to the front-side, making sure to pass through the button.
By now, you should be getting the hang of the motions. The thread will almost fill the entire hole by this point.
Step 11: Pass Through the Fabric a Third and Fourth Time
Repeat the same steps as before.
You might find that three passes are enough, but most people like to do four, just in case.
The holes will be very full of thread by now, so pushing the needle through could be getting difficult. If you find it too hard to push the needle through, you may need a thimble.
The thimble will protect your thumb and help push the needle through the fabric and layers of thread in the holes.
Stay with your pattern, no matter how difficult it is to push through.
Step 12: Wrap More Thread Around the Thread Under the Button to Make a Stem
This is the part home sewers usually forget or don’t know about.
They come up with all sorts of unique tricks to create enough space between the button and the fabric for the button to fit through the buttonhole in the jacket.
An easier way is to pull the needle and thread up through the fabric again, but not through a buttonhole.
Wrap the thread around the base of the button a few times, forming a “stem” under the button. Make the stem tight enough to hold the button securely, but still able to float.
Do not wrap so tight that the thread is forced to pucker. If you wrap it too tight or not tight enough, just unwind the thread and try again.
Finally, pass the thread through the fabric again and tie it off with two tight knots. Cut off the excess thread and you’re done!
If there is more to do to your jacket besides fixing a button, definitely take a look at our article that shows you how to tailor an overcoat.
If you’re more of a visual learner, we’ve included this helpful video by Secrets of the West End Wardrobe on Youtube, who shows you everything we just explained!
